Kris Van Assche, Creatieve Director of Dior Homme for the past 11 years, is leaving the post. The Belgian menswear designer, according to WWD, is set to remain within the LVMH conglomerate in a new role. Van Assche’s departure from Dior coincides with the appointment of Pietro Beccari, the former chief executive of Fendi, as CEO of Dior.
After moving to Paris in 1998, Kris almost immediately began his tenure with Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Homme as first assistant with Hedi Slimane. He then followed Hedi over to Dior Homme were Hedi took the brand to new levels and reimagining menswear for a whole new generation to come. Kris took over the position in 2007 and has continued to move the brand forward with his often minimalist colour palette and urban streetwear references. Van Assche recently worked along side photographer David Sims for the latest Dior Homme campaign which included artists such as The Pet Shop Boys, Boy George and Depeche Mode lead singer David Gahan.
It has been confirmed that Kris is set to be replaced by former mens style director at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones.
Hubert de Givenchy, one of both Paris’ and the worlds finest designers, passed away on Saturday. The designer was well known for dressing both fashion icons Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn, as well as going on to establish what is undoubtedly one of the most revered fashion houses of the past 50 years.
Hubert de Givenchy started out working along side Christian Dior, Pierre Balmian and Elsa Schiaparelli before establishing his own house at the Plaine Monceau, Paris in 1952. In February that year presented his debut collection featuring the iconic ‘Bettina’ blouse, named after his PR director and model of the day Bettina Graziani, it was made from the raw cotton “shirting” previously only used for couture fittings.
The following year he met Audrey Hepburn and quickly realised the power of enlisting a film star to help attract clients to the house of Givenchy. Hubert went on to design the black dress Hepburn famously wore in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. His designs were seen at the time to be far more innovative than those of fellow designers at the time such as Dior and was one of the youngest designers of the progressive Paris Fashion scene. Givenchy retired from fashion in 1995 when John Galliano took over the rains for a brief stint, this was followed by a longer tenure by the designer Alexander McQueen who, to the horror of Givenchy’s staunch clientele, brought the Givenchy up to the modern day couture house it is now, leading the way for Ricardo Tisci to transform the house into the modern day power house it is today.
Hubert De Givenchy 20/2/27 – 10/3/18
73 year old long time muse of both Saint Laurent and Tom Ford, model Betty Catroux has appeared in the latest Saint Laurent Campaign just days after Anthony Vaccarello presented his AW18 collection. Starting out as a model for Chanel, Betty went on to meet Laurent in 1967 and remained firm friends until his death in 2008, even though she was a big influence on the designer this is the first time she has actually modelled for the house. Catroux is famed for her long white blonde hair and androgynous appearance. Casting Catroux falls in line with the larger fashion trend of brands tapping older models that has seen author Joan Didion posing for Celine, Vanessa Redgrave for Gucci and model Maye Musk for Sachin & Babi. In 2016, then 69-year-old Jane Birkin posed for Vaccarello’s predecessor at Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane. As the press notes stipulate – “Betty Catroux perfectly embodies the saint Laurent Woman: forever modern”.
Martin Margiela, the ‘Invisible Man’ of fashion, has a retrospective spanning his 10 years at the helm of his eponymous label opening at the Palais Galliera, Paris this month. Spanning his career from spring/summer 1989 to spring/summer 2009 the exhibition is the first retrospective from the Belgian Designer, and despite his very low key lifestyle, Margiela is credited as Artistic Director for the exhibition as well as writing the captions for the looks and overseeing the wigs and make up on each mannequin.
Graduating from the infamous Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, where he studied alongside the remaining ‘Antwerp Six’, Martin began with a tenure at Jean Paul Gaultier as his assistant, Gaultier claiming he was by far the best assistant he had ever had and pushed him to start his own line. In 1989 Martin produced his first collection and, along side the other Antwerp Six, continued the legacy of Deconstructionism started in fashion by the japanese designers, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçon & Yoji Yammamoto amongst others.
Seen in the context of our present obsession with 24-hour connectivity and accessibility, Margiela’s work feels refreshingly subversive. Throughout his career he did not give interviews. His label on his clothing was just a plain white label stitched to the clothing, the only visible presence being the two stitches of cotton from the outside of the garment. In terms of his designs, he was years ahead of his time, and this new retrospective provides an opportunity to see the work of this extraordinary intellectual, who was every inch a designer’s designer – Demna Gvasalia, of Balenciaga and Vetements, and Phoebe Philo are both self-confessed fans. It is a testament to his legacy that after Martin Margiela left his label as head designer both Raf Simons & Haider Ackermann both turned down the roll.
The exhibition contains over 130 silhouettes, house archives and special installations and offers an unprecedented look at one of the most influential designers of the 20th century.
Palais Galliera Muséede la Mode de la Ville de Paris. 10, Avenue Pierre ler de Serbie 75116 Paris. March 3rd to July 15th Palais Galliera
Balenciaga slowly began to unveil their new campaign for SS18 Women via Instagram this week. Styled by long time collaborator and Vetements’ stylist Lotta Volkova, the campaign features models wearing the women SS18 collection whilst trying to elude the paparazzi. The images were shot by Agency Bestimage, the French equivalent of Getty images, which contained actually paparazzi photographers. “Hired security guards accompany models on their shopping trips, a further twist in the fashion meta-reality which frames the customer as the Balenciaga VIP” say the press notes. Not for the first time has Creative Director Demna Gvasalia explored this meta-reality with Balenciaga. For the Mens 2018 campaign, and again working alongside Lotta Volkova, Demna produced a series of ‘awkward family photos’ of real families (Balenciaga ‘Awkward Family Photos’). The paparazzi campaign is similar to Kanye West’s recent Yeezy season 6 campaign featuring Kim Kardashian, Paris Hilton & Amina Blue. All photographed similar papped situations, and, in a twist, now looks as though it could come under fire for breaching FTC laws which require influencers to disclose sponsored content.
See the campaign here Balenciaga Insta
Loewe Creative Director Jonathan Anderson has teamed up with celebrated American Artist Photographer Duane Michals to produce a black and white photo narrative series to go along side Loewe’s static exhibition of AW18 products in their Parisian showroom. Michals photographed the British actor Josh O’Conner as a failed magician, performing in the Teatro Reina Victoria in Madrid. “He had carte blanche,” Anderson said. “He came to Madrid and shot these tableaux in an old theater. He painted the backdrops and made the props.” The magician makes the model Erik Frey appear in a new Loewe outfit with each new trick performed. Over a career of 55 years Michal’s is constantly reinventing himself and has produced work from staged photographs to multi-media works with painted and manipulated photographs, as well as constructing elaborate fictional narratives. As well as the exhibition the images will alsobe published as a limited edition volume designed by M/M Paris.
See the images here Loewe AW18