Moncler is turning it’s back on the traditional fashion season and has introduced the concept of an eight strong ‘Genius’ team that will showcase new designs from the brand every month. The ‘Super Fashion Syndicate’ includes such heavy weights as Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino and British sensations Simone Rocha and Craig Green. Others in the team include Noir founder Kei Ninomiya and stylist Karl Templer. Each designer will specialise in a particular field. Line 1 will be designed by Piccioli whilst line 2 (Moncler 1952) will be left up to stylist Karl Templer. Sandro Mandrino will head up the Moncler Ski Line whilst line 8 will be left to Moncler’s long standing creative director Francesco Ragazzi. “All the creative minds of Moncler Genius have been chosen on instinct, to shape Moncler’s vision of uniqueness”. Says Remo Ruffini, CEO of Moncler, “As I say: one house, 8 different voices speaking Moncler’s language. I think creativity is the driving factor of the whole project. I do believe that creativity has no boundaries and Moncler Genius has been conceived as a hub of exceptional creative minds that work together under the same brand”. The results of these new collaborations will be unveiled with the new Moncler Genius Building which will open on the first night of Milan Fashion Week on 20th February. After that, each collection will have its own month of focus in Moncler stores from June onwards, with additional pop-ups.
For Jeremy Scotts latest Moschino AW18 collection, the designer has pushed the boundaries of gender fluidity, and created a collection full of dominatrix and provocativeness which gives a big nod to Madonna, particularly her Express Yourself tour, whose costumes were originally designed by Jean Paul Gaultier. “For this collection, I wanted to play around with the idea of mixing masculine and feminine in an assertively subversive way. So as well some overt dress codes of gender – maybe pent-up pinstripe suiting for her, florals, lace and frou-frou for him.” said Scott after the show. “People are in control of their sexuality and the way they want to look; you’re owning your own power.” As well as the Madonna references the collection contained trench coats with Moschino’s text heavy motifs, and also major references to the punk era with printed safety pin graphics and leather studded trousers. The finale was what was dubbed the ‘Tandem Tux’, the jacket tails twisted like a partial Möbius strip between a couple who were otherwise shirtless, although in such a way that breasts proved irrelevant.
A Rick Owens retrospective has opened in the Triennale Design Museum , Milan, showcasing the last 20 years of the designers fashion & furniture design work as well as some of his many collaborations. Owens, originally from California but now Paris based, has described the exhibit as a personal narrative and is the first time he has held a full retrospective across all the design elements he chooses to work with. Owens has curated a selection of garments, accessories, furniture, graphics and publications that chart the ebbs and flows — both intimate and professional — of his prolific career. “I wanted to take what a dismissive world might mock,” Owens describes of his desire to mount this show, “and create something fine, empathetic, kind and inclusive.” Launching in 1994, Owens quickly became known for his skate / gothic glamorous style operating from Hollywood Boulevard and moved to Paris to set up an atelier in 2003.