A-COLD-WALL* London SS19. Samual Ross proves a powerhouse for streetwear

At the forefront of London street culture & at the zeitgeist of the British working class, Samual Ross’s A-Cold-Wall* put on his most accomplished show to date on Sunday in East London’s Old Truman Brewery, his first after previous seasons of showing at the BFC space.  The viewers, on entering the space, were each given a vacuum pack of safety goggles, ear plugs and a ventilation mask.  The show began with a group of models wearing full clay covered grey garments and their faces painted grey slowly moving in unison throughout the space, the group appearing throughout the show to guard the clothing models with metal rods.  The show was named ‘Human. Form. Structure.’ with the three concepts examined throughout the show.  The clothes ranged from structured jackets to cargo shorts, bright yellow, oxblood and grey in colour with flashes of colourful metallic details in crimson.  The trousers loose fitting with padding above the knee.  The show ended with the grey group of models breaking down a structured wall that had been brought onto the runway, followed by a lonely figure in red paint pushing the structure away.  
In attendance was Ross’s old mentor Virgil Abloh, with whom he had worked as an intern, then moved on to be his right hand assistant and consultant.  On working with Abloh, Ross recently told Vogue UK “It’s funny because I can look at it from a few angles — as someone who has been a part of his journey, someone who looks at him as a mentor, someone and who is a person of colour in this industry,” he says. “He articulates the information of our time and he has worked incredibly hard consistently for over a decade, and most of that was behind-the-scenes, without public acknowledgement.”  This has given Ross the insight and ability to ensure the designer does not become isolated form the consumer, a drive in many current successful streetwear labels.
A-Cold-Wall* refers to the idea of feeling a cold surface as a common social denominator — an Edwardian marble colonnade and council estate scaffolding evoking the same sensation for two different social groups. “It’s really about presenting conceptual ideas at a digestible level,” he says, referencing the bright synthetics of construction sites and council estates, as well as contemporary working class subcultures.
The full A-Cold-Wall* SS19 show below

‘B Classic’ Burberry tease from Riccardo Tisci

Following his appointment at the luxury British fashion house, the anticipation for Riccardo Tisci’s debut collection for Burberry has been one of excitement to say the least.  So with him already working on his debut collection, Tisci has released a teaser of things to come on his instagram account from the pre collection called ‘B Classic’.  The collection is a celebration of Burberry through a carefully selected edit of the iconic pieces synonymous with the brand: the trench coat, the quilted jacket the poncho and the kilt.  Of the collection Tisci said “I wanted to celebrate the beauty, heritage and legacy that I discovered when I first arrived at Burberry.  ‘B Classic’ is an edit that I’ve curated to honour the icons of the House – pieces like the trench coat, the quilted jacket, the car coat, the kilt – which sits at the heart of the SS19 pre collection designed by the fantastic Burberry design team.”  Tisci took over from Christopher Bailey in March of this year with one standout line from Burberry’s announcement notes that Tisci’s “skill in blending streetwear with high fashion is highly relevant to today’s luxury, Riccardo’s creative vision will reinforce the ambitions we have for Burberry and position the brand firmly in luxury”.  Riccardo Tisci will reveal his full collection for the brand in September 2018.  
See Riccardo’s teaser on his Instagram account Here
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Riccardo Tisci – Designer

Single Shot – Dieter Rams

Design Museum: Your phrase “less but better” was initially read as an endorsement for purity in design. But it has been adopted as an environmental message about reduction and sustainability. What does the global community need to do to address that secondary message?
Dieter Rams: We live today with a lot of chaos, and designers should concentrate on helping to lighten the chaos, including the noise. Nobody notices any more that we’re living with a lot of noise. We don’t register the chaos; sometimes, yes, when we are in the middle of traffic or running late, we discover that everything is chaotic around us. It’s London, it’s Frankfurt it’s Berlin—it’s what Corbusier used to say about New York in the ’30s: It’s a “wonderful catastrophe”. Now all our cities around the world are wonderful catastrophes. We have to think much more about what we really need: how often we need things and how many we need. If we want to stay on this planet 50 years from now then we have to take that more seriously.
Design Museum:  For many people the chaos in the environment is mirrored in their own personal spaces, in the jumble of belongings. Is clutter ever a positive thing?
Dieter Rams:  In your personal surroundings there should be places where you have some disorder, so that you find the other places that are in order. Order with disorder—the contrast—can be sometimes fascinating. You have to have the difference; otherwise, you forget the feeling for order, for the necessary things.
Read Dieter Rams Ten Principles for Good Design
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Dieter Rams – Industrial Designer

 

 

Craig Green named as next guest designer for Pitti Uomo

Craig Green has been named as Pitti Uomo’s next, and only, guest designer.  The British designer will show his Spring / Summer 2019 collection at the biannual event in Florence, Italy on June 14th.  This means Craig Green will not be showing at London Fashion Week Men in London after last seasons hugely successful show, were he finally moved himself away from the emerging designer scene.  Previous designers at Pitti Uomo have included Raf Simons, J W Anderson and Off White.  According to Pitti Uomo communication’s director Lapo Cianchi this is the not first time Craig was considered for a guest designer slot. “We got in touch with Craig a few years ago, after being literally hit by his collections, but he had an exclusive deal with London at the time. Men’s Fashion Week “.  
Pitti Uomo 12th – 15th June  Florence, Italy 
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Craig Green – Fashion Designer

 

Judy Blame – Legendary Stylist, Art Director & Designer has died

Judy Blame, the iconoclastic punk, has died aged 58.  The stylist, art director and overall creative genius was one of the key players in the fashion and club movement in London in the late 70’s and through the 80’s, defining post punk, new romantics and the buffalo scene.  As well as designing jewellery, Judy was also a stylist for such iconic fashion bibles as I.D. The Face and Blitz.  Later he consulted for such heavy weight designers as Rei Kawakubo, John Galliano and Marc Jacobs.  In 1985 Blame set up, along side John Moore, The House of Beauty and Culture in Dalston, a collective of like minded creatives including Christopher Nemeth.  Blame had continued to make his DIY aesthetic jewellery throughout his career and last year had his first major solo exhibition at the ICA entitled ‘Judy Blame:Never Again. Close Friend Boy George tweeted “RIP to my friend Judy Blame who was beautiful, talented and arch as hell.  Fashion has a huge void in it and London has lost a legend”
Nick Night’s PUNK with Judy Blame

Gender-fluidity & tongue-in-cheek slogans at MAN AW18 London Men’s Fashion week

This seasons new group of emerging designers showing for MEN at the Men’s London Fashion week AW18 collections were an exercise in what London Collections does best.  The non-profit initiative from the founders of Fashion East in association with TopMan help nurture young emerging talent and have, over the years, helped launch the careers of J.W. Anderson, Craig Green and more recently critics favourite Charles Jeffery aka Loverboy.  This season the collections came from Art School, Stefan Cooke & Rottingdean Bazaar.  Art School design duo Eden Loweth & Tom Barrett took their inspiration from different empowering women from Donatella Versace to Kyle Jenner and explored non-binary gender identities and saw a focus on redefining the limitations of gendered fashion. Newcomer Stefan Cooke, the critics favourite, who only set up his brand last year, showed a collection, using as its base, old photographs sourced from eBay.  The digital prints gave the illusion of denim and knitted skinny trousers, while slim-fit tops featured a snake effect.  Rottingdean Bazaar, meanwhile, showed a collection swathed in both ironic & iconic symbols.  From Naomi Campbell cardboard cut-outs to mundane objects such as dartboards turned into dresses as well as tongue in cheek slogans.  The designers received a bursary, free venue and complete catwalk show production, professional catwalk photographs and video. The designers were also given mentoring, guidance and in-house PR throughout the season from Lulu Kennedy and her team.  

Juergen Teller triple show at Alison Jacques gallery

Alison Jacques gallery will be showing a set of three exhibitions of the work of Juergen Teller.  From his seminal 90’s work, Go See – a series of images of models sent to his studio in 1998 on a ‘go see’ of which he photographed outside his West London studio to his work photographing Bavarian kids in his collection entitled Bubenreuth Kids in 2017.    Made over a 12 month period, Go Sees shows hundreds of photographs of would be models sent to see Teller in the hope of becoming a ‘professional’ model.  All the photographs are spontaneous and unedited to show the vulnerability of the young girls trying to emulate the supermodels they desire to be.  The exhibition will also show a new body of work entitled ‘A fairytale about a king . . . ‘ an exploration of childhood as told through a fairy tail of a young boy growing up in London that goes on to become a King.
Juergen Teller: Go Sees, Bubenreuth Kids and A fairytale about a King.   Alison Jacques Gallery 16-18 Berners St. W1T 3LN  24th Nov – 13th Jan 2018
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Juergen Teller – Photographer