Kris Van Assche, Creatieve Director of Dior Homme for the past 11 years, is leaving the post. The Belgian menswear designer, according to WWD, is set to remain within the LVMH conglomerate in a new role. Van Assche’s departure from Dior coincides with the appointment of Pietro Beccari, the former chief executive of Fendi, as CEO of Dior.
After moving to Paris in 1998, Kris almost immediately began his tenure with Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche Homme as first assistant with Hedi Slimane. He then followed Hedi over to Dior Homme were Hedi took the brand to new levels and reimagining menswear for a whole new generation to come. Kris took over the position in 2007 and has continued to move the brand forward with his often minimalist colour palette and urban streetwear references. Van Assche recently worked along side photographer David Sims for the latest Dior Homme campaign which included artists such as The Pet Shop Boys, Boy George and Depeche Mode lead singer David Gahan.
It has been confirmed that Kris is set to be replaced by former mens style director at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones.
Craig Green has been named as Pitti Uomo’s next, and only, guest designer. The British designer will show his Spring / Summer 2019 collection at the biannual event in Florence, Italy on June 14th. This means Craig Green will not be showing at London Fashion Week Men in London after last seasonshugely successful show, were he finally moved himself away from the emerging designer scene. Previous designers at Pitti Uomo have included Raf Simons, J W Anderson and Off White. According to Pitti Uomo communication’s director Lapo Cianchi this is the not first time Craig was considered for a guest designer slot. “We got in touch with Craig a few years ago, after being literally hit by his collections, but he had an exclusive deal with London at the time. Men’s Fashion Week “.
Martin Margiela, the ‘Invisible Man’ of fashion, has a retrospective spanning his 10 years at the helm of his eponymous label opening at the Palais Galliera, Paris this month. Spanning his career from spring/summer 1989 to spring/summer 2009 the exhibition is the first retrospective from the Belgian Designer, and despite his very low key lifestyle, Margiela is credited as Artistic Director for the exhibition as well as writing the captions for the looks and overseeing the wigs and make up on each mannequin.
Graduating from the infamous Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, where he studied alongside the remaining ‘Antwerp Six’, Martin began with a tenure at Jean Paul Gaultier as his assistant, Gaultier claiming he was by far the best assistant he had ever had and pushed him to start his own line. In 1989 Martin produced his first collection and, along side the other Antwerp Six, continued the legacy of Deconstructionism started in fashion by the japanese designers, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçon & Yoji Yammamoto amongst others.
Seen in the context of our present obsession with 24-hour connectivity and accessibility, Margiela’s work feels refreshingly subversive. Throughout his career he did not give interviews. His label on his clothing was just a plain white label stitched to the clothing, the only visible presence being the two stitches of cotton from the outside of the garment. In terms of his designs, he was years ahead of his time, and this new retrospective provides an opportunity to see the work of this extraordinary intellectual, who was every inch a designer’s designer – Demna Gvasalia, of Balenciaga and Vetements, and Phoebe Philo are both self-confessed fans. It is a testament to his legacy that after Martin Margiela left his label as head designer both Raf Simons & Haider Ackermann both turned down the roll.
The exhibition contains over 130 silhouettes, house archives and special installations and offers an unprecedented look at one of the most influential designers of the 20th century.
Palais Galliera Muséede la Mode de la Ville de Paris. 10, Avenue Pierre ler de Serbie 75116 Paris. March 3rd to July 15th Palais Galliera
Moncler is turning it’s back on the traditional fashion season and has introduced the concept of an eight strong ‘Genius’ team that will showcase new designs from the brand every month. The ‘Super Fashion Syndicate’ includes such heavy weights as Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino and British sensations Simone Rocha and Craig Green. Others in the team include Noir founder Kei Ninomiya and stylist Karl Templer. Each designer will specialise in a particular field. Line 1 will be designed by Piccioli whilst line 2 (Moncler 1952) will be left up to stylist Karl Templer. Sandro Mandrino will head up the Moncler Ski Line whilst line 8 will be left to Moncler’s long standing creative director Francesco Ragazzi. “All the creative minds of Moncler Genius have been chosen on instinct, to shape Moncler’s vision of uniqueness”. Says Remo Ruffini, CEO of Moncler, “As I say: one house, 8 different voices speaking Moncler’s language. I think creativity is the driving factor of the whole project. I do believe that creativity has no boundaries and Moncler Genius has been conceived as a hub of exceptional creative minds that work together under the same brand”. The results of these new collaborations will be unveiled with the new Moncler Genius Building which will open on the first night of Milan Fashion Week on 20th February. After that, each collection will have its own month of focus in Moncler stores from June onwards, with additional pop-ups.