Why British designer Daniel Lee’s appointment at Bottega Veneta is very exciting

Just 48 hours after Creative Director Tomas Maier announced he was stepping down after 17 years at the helm of Bottega Veneta, the company has announced British designer Daniel Lee is set to take over on July 1st.  Although relatively unknown outside of the fashion industry, 32 yr old Lee, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, has so far worked along side some of the most outstanding current brands today.  After putting in stints at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga & Donna Karen, the designer most recently was Director of Ready-to-Wear at Céline were he began in 2012.
Following Phoebe Philo’s departure late last year, and the appointment of Hedi Slimane, who is tearing the house apart to continue in his inimitable style, Lee would have been out of a job.  Meanwhile Kerring, the luxury conglomerate that owns Bottega Veneta, have been appointing some shrewd Creative Directors within its houses in recent years, most notably Alessandro Michele at Gucci & Demna Gvasalia at Balenciaga.  And after quite public fraught tension with Hedi at Saint Laurent, employing Lee from Céline will go some way to keeping the minimalist understated style of Céline alive once Hedi turns the brand on its head, and bring some fresh vitality to Bottega Veneta in the same way both Michele & Gvasalia have to their houses.  “Daniel Lee has a deep understanding of the house’s current challenges both in terms of creation and development.” said Claus Dietrich Lahrs, CEO of Bottega Veneta. “He will bring to Bottega Veneta a new and distinctive creative language that will continue building the house’s success based on the ambitious foundations already developed over recent years.”
Former Creative Director Tomas Maier has laid the foundations for the house in the past 17 years but recent years have seen a steady decline in profits.  Maier was known for his strict detailing and rejected out-and-out branding for a more subtle approach.  
“I’m both honored and excited to continue the legacy that has been created at Bottega Veneta over the last five decades,” said Lee. “Maintaining the ingrained codes of the House, craftsmanship, quality and sophistication, I look forward to evolving what has gone before, while contributing a new perspective and modernity.”  Daniel will start at Bottega Veneta in July with his first collection in September. 
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Daniel Lee – Creative Director Bottega Veneta

 

Hubert de Givenchy, French Fashion Icon, Dies at 91

Hubert de Givenchy, one of both Paris’ and the worlds finest designers, passed away on Saturday.  The designer was well known for dressing both fashion icons Jackie Kennedy  and Audrey Hepburn, as well as going on to establish what is undoubtedly one of the most revered fashion houses of the past 50 years.  
Hubert de Givenchy started out working along side Christian Dior, Pierre Balmian and Elsa Schiaparelli before establishing his own house at the Plaine Monceau, Paris in 1952.  In February that year presented his debut collection featuring the iconic ‘Bettina’ blouse, named after his PR director and model of the day Bettina Graziani, it was made from the raw cotton “shirting” previously only used for couture fittings.  
The following year he met Audrey Hepburn and quickly realised the power of enlisting a film star to help attract clients to the house of Givenchy.  Hubert went on to design the black dress Hepburn famously wore in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.  His designs were seen at the time to be far more innovative than those of fellow designers at the time such as Dior and was one of the youngest designers of the progressive Paris Fashion scene.  Givenchy retired from fashion in 1995 when John Galliano took over the rains for a brief stint, this was followed by a longer tenure by the designer Alexander McQueen who, to the horror of Givenchy’s staunch clientele, brought the Givenchy up to the modern day couture house it is now, leading the way for Ricardo Tisci to transform the house into the modern day power house it is today.   
Hubert De Givenchy 20/2/27 – 10/3/18

Balenciaga Paparazzi Campaign 2018

Balenciaga slowly began to unveil their new campaign for SS18 Women via Instagram this week.  Styled by long time collaborator and Vetements’ stylist Lotta Volkova, the campaign features models wearing the women SS18 collection whilst trying to elude the paparazzi.  The images were shot by Agency Bestimage, the French equivalent of Getty images, which contained actually paparazzi photographers. “Hired security guards accompany models on their shopping trips, a further twist in the fashion meta-reality which frames the customer as the Balenciaga VIP” say the press notes.  Not for the first time has Creative Director Demna Gvasalia explored this meta-reality with Balenciaga.  For the Mens 2018 campaign, and again working alongside Lotta Volkova, Demna produced a series of ‘awkward family photos’ of real families (Balenciaga ‘Awkward Family Photos’).  The paparazzi campaign is similar to Kanye West’s recent Yeezy season 6 campaign featuring Kim Kardashian, Paris Hilton & Amina Blue.  All photographed  similar papped situations, and, in a twist, now looks as though it could come under fire for breaching FTC laws which require influencers to disclose sponsored content.
See the campaign here Balenciaga Insta

Phoebe Philo to exit Céline

After 10 years as Creative Director of the Parisian luxury brand Céline, designer Phoebe Philo is to step down.  The British designers final show will be the SS18 show set to take place in Paris in March.  In a statement from the brand Philo said “Working with Céline has been an exceptional experience for me these last 10 years. I am grateful to have worked with an incredibly talented and committed team and I would like to thank everyone along the way who has been part of the collaborations and conversations. It’s been amazing.”  Philo joined Céline in 2008, after a tenure at Chloé, and over the 10 years has redefined how women dress, from revitalising the Stan Smith trainer she wore at the end of her catwalk shows, to turning out leather ‘it’ bags with ease as well as her famously edgy campaigns in collaboration with Juergen Teller.   Rumours of her next role include a possible move to Burberry.

 

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Phoebe Philo – Designer

 

Chris Moore to release book of the greatest Catwalk moments

Chris Moore, the undisputed king of catwalk photography,  is set to release a publication showcasing his six decade career documenting some of fashions most historic fashion shows.  Over the past 60 years Chris has seen the beginnings of Ready to Wear, the fabulous extravagance of Yves Saint Laurent & Calvin Klein’s 1970’s, the rise of the super model in the 80’s right up to groundbreaking shows by John Galliano & Alexander McQueen.  Today, ages 83, he still works the catwalks for the International Herald Tribune & The New York Times.  Produced in collaboration with Journalist and Author Alexander Fury, the book is a history of modern fashion, with Chris choosing his favourite catwalk moments from the past 60 years.  As well as the book Chris, along with Alexander and designer Christopher Kane, will appear at London’s V&A to discuss the evolution of the catwalk show.
Catwalking by Chris Moore is released 7th Nov. 
Chris Moore at the V&A takes place 26th Oct. 7pm 
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Chris Moore – Photographer