Loewe Creative Director Jonathan Anderson has teamed up with celebrated American Artist Photographer Duane Michals to produce a black and white photo narrative series to go along side Loewe’s static exhibition of AW18 products in their Parisian showroom. Michals photographed the British actor Josh O’Conner as a failed magician, performing in the Teatro Reina Victoria in Madrid. “He had carte blanche,” Anderson said. “He came to Madrid and shot these tableaux in an old theater. He painted the backdrops and made the props.” The magician makes the model Erik Frey appear in a new Loewe outfit with each new trick performed. Over a career of 55 years Michal’s is constantly reinventing himself and has produced work from staged photographs to multi-media works with painted and manipulated photographs, as well as constructing elaborate fictional narratives. As well as the exhibition the images will alsobe published as a limited edition volume designed by M/M Paris.
Hedi Slimane has been named as new artistic, creative & image director of Celine by LVMH this morning. Hedi will take over from Phoebe Philo, who announced her resignation last December, starting February 1st. Former Saint Laurent Creative director, Hedi will oversee Womenswear, Menswear, Couture and Fragrance. Phoebe Philo’s style is very different to Hedi, her collections were for made for the working women, like herself. Slimane was also the founding designer at Dior Homme, and is one of the most controversial designers of his generation. He reinvigorated Yves Saint Laurent with what some critics called a narrowly defined rock look but that sold at record levels for the brand. Bernard Arnault, chairman & Chief executive of LVMH said in a statement “He is one of the most talented designers of our time. I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme, which he launched to global critical acclaim in the 2000s. His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this maison.” Good friend and Hedi admirer Karl Lagerfeld, Creative Director of Chanel, congratulated Slimane saying “I am enchanted, what a great choice”.
Philo will show her final collection in Paris in March. Hedi’s first collection will take place in in September 2018.
After 7 years at the helm of Louis Vuitton menswear Kim Jones has announced this coming Thursday’s AW18 show will be his last show as Creative Director for the house. Since being appointed in 2011, Kim Jones has been a trailblazer at Louis Vuitton, transforming the menswear brand with collaborations with British artists Jake and Dinos Chapman and tie-ins with streetwear brand Supreme. “It has been a huge privilege to work with Kim,” said Michael Burke, Vuitton’s chairman and chief executive officer, praising the designer’s “ability to set trends” and talent. “All of us who have been fortunate to work with Kim wish him continued success in his next venture.” Rumours are already abound that Kim replace Christopher Bailey at Burberry following his departure in March, although Kim has yet to produce a womenswear line.
For Jeremy Scotts latest Moschino AW18 collection, the designer has pushed the boundaries of gender fluidity, and created a collection full of dominatrix and provocativeness which gives a big nod to Madonna, particularly her Express Yourself tour, whose costumes were originally designed by Jean Paul Gaultier. “For this collection, I wanted to play around with the idea of mixing masculine and feminine in an assertively subversive way. So as well some overt dress codes of gender – maybe pent-up pinstripe suiting for her, florals, lace and frou-frou for him.” said Scott after the show. “People are in control of their sexuality and the way they want to look; you’re owning your own power.” As well as the Madonna references the collection contained trench coats with Moschino’s text heavy motifs, and also major references to the punk era with printed safety pin graphics and leather studded trousers. The finale was what was dubbed the ‘Tandem Tux’, the jacket tails twisted like a partial Möbius strip between a couple who were otherwise shirtless, although in such a way that breasts proved irrelevant.
Following her success as creative director at Chloe, Clare Waight Keller has already produced a successful catwalk show for Givenchy and now aims to further cement her status as a successful predecessor to long time designer Riccardo Tisci with the latest ad campaign for Givenchy Spring 2018. The campaign, shot by Steven Meisel, again gives both Men’s and Women’s sides parity as was set out in her debut show. The campaign was shot in a private mansion in upstate New York and features black and white portraits that mirror the Givenchy collection. The portraits are positioned next to bold colour photographs of accessories, of which Keller has said will become a very important part of her tenure at Givenchy. The images portray an intimate setting among friends casually hanging out and have a very 70’s rocker vibe. “I wanted the models’ attitude to be engaging so I asked them to just be themselves, as they might if they were invited to a party at a friend’s home,” said Keller. “I think that they really capture the spirit of a generation that loves fashion, but most of all they love making it their own.” As well as Steven Meisel behind the camera, the 70’s influenced style was pushed further by Guido Palau doing the hair and Pat McGrath producing minimal smokey eyes.
Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele opened the newly curated Gucci Museo in Florence, Italy with the added Gucci Garden, which contains the addition of a new concept store, exclusive restaurant run by Italian Michelin-starred chef Massimo Bottura and the Galleria exhibition rooms curated by critic Maria Luisa Frisa. The façade of the building greets you with a large neon-pink illuminating eye. The space, originally the museum opened by Gucci in 2011, will also display a wide ranging retrospective of pieces from collections dating back to the House’s Florentine origins in 1921. The specially curated concept store will feature, as well as Gucci clothing & jewellery, the brands recent foray into the world of home decor. Alessandro said “The garden is real, but it belongs above all to the mind, populated with plants and animals: like the snake, which slips in everywhere, and in a sense, symbolizes a perpetual beginning and a perpetual return.” Entry to the Gucci Garden experience will cost around €10 with half of the fee donated to support restoration projects around the city of Florence.
Gucci Museo, Piazza della Signoria, 10, 50122, Firenze FL, Italy
Following New York, Berlin & Milan, Birkenstock’s experimental pop-up container is heading to L.A in collaboration with Rick Owens. Designed by Gonzalez Haase, the space, which is made of converted freight containers, are continually re-imagined by the host designer in each city it visits. L.A will have the designer Rick Owens interperate his interior design vision on the space this coming March. The space will include the recently announced Birkenstock collaborative footwear with Owens, including four different fabrications of the classic Birkenstock shoe. As well as selling Birkenstock, Rick Owens designed furniture, objects and accessories will also be available as well as his signature gothic skate style clothing.
Pre-orders for Rick Owens x Birkenstock from 1st March
Private Launch 15th March Space open from 16th March 819 N Brea Ave, LA, CA 90038