Jamie Hawkesworth ‘A short pleasurable journey pt 2’ exhibit

The second part to photographer Jamie Hawkesworth’s 2016 exhibition opens today at 1-7 Aylesbury st.  This time the work concentrates on just three weeks he spent in Floresti, Romania.  The first part of his exhibition documented Jamie’s travels around the world, including both fashion editorials as well as personal photography, for the second part he has chosen to focus on one single place.  He discovered Floresti after the conductor of the London Symphony School Orchestra invited him to accompany them on a tour of Romania when Jamie was searching for an orchestra to produce a score for a film he was working on.  “We ended up in Floresti and I just loved the place”.  
The exhibition is intended for the viewer to feel as close to Hawkesworth’s time in Florești as possible. “When someone walks around the show, in the most honest way, I really do want them to feel like they’re by my side plodding along and taking pictures of things,” he says.  Jamie last spent time focusing on just one place back in 2010 when he produced the series on Preston Bus Station entitled ‘Preston is my Paris’.  Reflecting on his past in the exhibitions notes he writes:  “Learning photography is like learning to speak when you’re a child. You copy your parents, people you admire, then you create your own voice. It’s a language that’s constantly evolving with your experience.”
Speaking to the British Journal of Photography Hawkesworth explained that he awoke each morning at sunrise at Floresti and set off with no predetermined plan. The routine echoed the nature of his practice at the very start of his career. The photographer would embark on long, aimless walks to take pictures; on the weekend, he would pick a place by whim and catch the train there to explore. “I made a blog called Jaunt,” he says. “It was a very strange blog, but Jaunt in the dictionary means a ‘short, pleasurable journey’.” 
A short pleasurable journey, Part 2 runs 10am – 6pm, 17th – 27th May at 1-7 Aylesbury St, London EC1R0DR
Jamie Hawkesworth in conversation with Lou Stoppard for ShowStudio May 2017  here

Honey Dijon x Comme de Garçons fashion collaboration

Japanese label Comme de Garçon is partnering with American DJ & producer Honey Dijon.  Adrian Joffe, Dover Street Market president, announced the partnership to WWD, saying they were working together on a new brand set to be called ‘Honey Fucking Dijon’.  Honey Dijon expressed her joy on the partnership on Instagram saying “As a trans woman of colour I’d never imagined that this would be possible.  Thank you @adrianjoffee @commedesgarcon for allowing me to represent my culture, community and love of house music.  I am truly honoured”.
The first products will be a small collection of DJ bags and T-shirsts and are set to launch in the late summer.  Dijon will be following in fellow DJ Peggy Gou who has her own label ‘Kirin’ which is in collaboration with the New Guards Group, who also own the Off-White Label.
Comme des Garçon website    Honey Dijon Boiler Room Mix

 

Raf exits Calvin Klein

Raf Simons’ tenure at Calvin Klein has ended less than 2 years after making his debut in New York.  In a joint announcement, the company and the Belgian designer said they were parting ways amicably after Calvin Klein “decided on a new brand direction different from Simons’ creative vision.”  Simons’ vision of the brand had won many plaudits from the fashion industry but commercially, as far as PVH, the corporation behind Klein, were concerned, had failed to resonate.  
Raf’s role as Chief Creative Officer will end 8 months before his contract is up.  The departure is no big surprise after PVH CEO Emanuel Chirico expressed dissatisfaction with Simons’ performance, showing concern at the unsuccessful overhaul of Calvin Klein Jeans, with the overall revenue of the brand increasing by just 2%.  
After successful tenures at Jill Sander & Dior, Simons was given full creative control at Calvin Klein and was given the task of realigning the companies ready-to-wear collection, which for any years had been overshadowed with its sales of underwear and jeans.  But he hasn’t managed to make his high brow art installation version of Americana a revenue success. “While many of the product categories performed well, we are disappointed by the lack of return on our investments in our Calvin Klein 205W39NYC halo business and believe that some of the Calvin Klein Jeans relaunched product was too elevated and did not sell through as well as we planned,” the company announced in an earnings statement on 29 November.
Simons’s spring/summer 2019 205W39NYC collection, which heavily referenced films such as The Graduate and Jaws, was presented at New York Fashion Week in September. Back in February 2017, British Vogue deputy editor Sarah Harris described Simons’s debut for the brand as “a celebration of America seen through an exacting eye and his precision cut.”  
Calvin Klein have now cancelled the final Raf Simons show which was due to take place in February 2019 in New York. 

Liverpool to host first UK major retrospective of Keith Haring

The late iconic Artist & Activist Keith Haring will have his first major UK retrospective shown in June 2019 at Tate Liverpool.  A legend of the New York art scene, the show will include 85 works by the artist including paintings, drawings, photographs and videos, all encapsulating the 1980’s underground that the artist embodied.  Best known for his iconic motifs, such as barking dogs, crawling babies and flying saucers, Haring’s work was politically charged and motivated by activism, with Haring’s work as an AIDS activist and educator remaining his most essential legacy.  Having evolved from the street scene and club culture of the early 80’s, with his graffiti style being seen at such legendary clubs as Paradise Garage, he later went on to work in the same circles as Jean Michel Basquiat, Andy Warhol, Madonna, Vivienne Westwood & Grace Jones.  He was also an active member of the legendary Club 57 in New York, where he gave performances and organised exhibitions. 
Writing for ID magazine Ryan White declared  “Though much has changed in the world since the 1908’s, and HIV/AIDS no longer as much of a threat in NYC, a lot of the themes Haring’s explored — opioid addiction, racism, police brutality, environmental damage, war — remain as present and urgent as ever. An expansive retrospective, then, couldn’t be more welcome”.  In 1988 Haring was diagnosed with AIDS and set up the Keith Haring foundation to support children’s programs and organisations dedicated to raising AIDS awareness.  He later died in 1990 aged 31.  
The following is an excerpt from the Keith Haring foundation regarding his love of New York nightlife and Music, particularly the Paradise Garage – 
“Wherever Keith Haring was working, either on the street or in his studio, music was always playing. Haring’s work embodies the sounds of the New York streets and of streetwise clubs like Paradise Garage. You can almost hear the music that infuses the visual rhythm of his work. Haring was one of the rare artists who was able to visualize sound.
Reminiscing about Keith Haring and the Paradise Garage, Ann Magnuson wrote that “dancing was our pagan rite and the Paradise Garage, the first multi-cultural gay dance club, became Keith’s Pantheon.” In his journals, Haring wrote, “I don’t know if you know how important the Paradise Garage is, at least for me and the tribe of people who have shared many a collective spiritual experience there. The Garage also changed or affected my life incredibly through various ‘re-imprinting’ experiences and transformations.” Haring would even schedule his trips around the Garage, “leaving on Sundays and returning before or on Saturdays.”
The exhibition  ‘Keith Haring’  takes place 14th June – 10th November 2019  Tate Liverpool, Albert Dock, Liverpool L3 4BB
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Keith Haring – Artist

The Marc Jacobs grunge re-issue – A reset or a reminder

In 2013 Hedi Slimane sent his Autumn / Winter collection for Saint Laurent down the catwalk in Paris, 20 years after the, much derived at the time, infamous Marc Jacobs grunge collection for Perry Ellis.  Slimane’s collection was seen as almost a direct copy of the grunge collection from Spring / Summer 93, with many publications flaunting the side by side catwalk shots of the 2 collections.  Of course, at the time, critics were very quick to dismiss the Marc Jacobs collection, with scathing reviews by the likes of Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes.  With the Saint Laurent collection years later, critics were also not as kind to Slimane. Despite this, the Perry Ellis collection has been hailed as a very important in the fashion industry and even more important in the career of Marc Jacobs. 
Fast forward to this year and Marc Jacobs has revealed he will be reissuing many pieces from the collection for his 2019 resort collection.  This is not an inspirational collection, these are actual pieces, remade in as close to the original fabrics as he can, this time under his own name sake rather than Perry Ellis.  
The collection was very important for Jacobs, very much going against the grain of what was happening on the catwalks at the time, as well as being quite far removed from the Perry Ellis muse.  It was a massive risk for him to take, and one which, if it wasn’t for the Grace Coddington styled ‘Grunge & Glory’ Vogue editorial,  may have meant we may not have got to know the iconic designer at all.  The collection over the years was eventually seen as one of the most iconic of its day, eventually copied on the catwalks of many of his peers as well as years later at Saint Laurent.  
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Perry Ellis 1993 – Saint Laurent 2013

So why is the collection, seen as a very progressive and forward thinking collection being brought back?  After exiting his role at Louis Vuitton in 2013 Marc’s career has struggled with trying to focus attention on his own name sake brand.  Already folding his Marc x Marc Jacobs brand into his main collection, the Marc Jacobs brand has become confusing, his collections and his brand just do not feel relevant today.  For the first time since the infamous collection Marc is at a wavering crossroads and bringing back the collection will not just be a reminder of his undeniable legacy but will also help him to refocus on the future, with a reminder that he can, and is, a risk taker.  “The ‘grunge’ collection epitomised the first time in my professional career I was unwavering in my determination to see my vision come to life on the runway, without creative compromise.” he said in a press release.  He had consulted people closest to him, alongside Sarah Andelman, a co-owner of influential retailer Colette, in Paris, for there ideas. The result was to release the capsule grunge collection. “This is not an aggressive sales thing,” Jacobs said. “It’s not like we’re going to redo this collection at one-16th of the price and put it in every store all over the world, we chose a few retailers” — Saks Fifth Avenue and Dover Street Market, among others — “and we won’t show it in the usual way.”
A total of 26 pieces have been replicated.  The original patterns have been lost so the team had to piece together the collection from old photographs and film of the catwalk shows – some of the original fabrics had been taken from frith stores in New York – and permission was granted from the Perry Ellis brand to recreate the looks.  
Marc’s original collection was all about the energy of the moment and doing a redux collection might seem to be going against the grain of what the collection became to represent for Marc Jacobs and his work he continued with Louis Vuitton, turning Vuitton into one of the most sort after street labels of the noughties.  But it also shows that Marc is not willing to sit back and rest on his name sake – he wants to move forward and is using this collection to rest his own creativity, do something new within the fashion world, and then be able to go on to again be a force to be reckoned with and produce collections with an entirely new vision.
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Marc Jacobs Resort 2019

The collection is available now with an ad campaign set to follow shot by Juergen Teller.  
The collection can be seen here on the Marc Jacobs website

Artists Turntable Re-Designs for Charity Auction

10 Artists, including Gavin Turk, Jake & Dinos Chapman and Jeremy Deller have been asked by Secret 7″ to design a one-off turntable for the Planar 1/1 exhibition, to be auctioned on-line with the proceeds going to the mental health charity Mind.  Each artist was given a blank Rega Planer turntable and were given free reign to add there own creation onto the turntable.  The Re-Designs follows a set of artists including Anish Kapoor who created one off record sleeves for Secret 7″ earlier this year.  
The turntables include a Gavin Turk ‘Blue Plaque’ design, referencing his Cave piece, Stuart Semple’s nod to Joy Division, including lyrics from Disorder,  The Chapman brothers colour etching and James Joyce’s Smiley faces.  The 10 Turntables will be on display at The Ace Hotel Lobby in Shoreditch until tomorrow evening when they will be auctioned, there will be a public event in the Hotel lobby on the night including a Dj set by Gavin Turk and Pete Fowler.  
More info:  Secret 7″  Ace Hotel Shoreditch 

Tale Of Us make New York Fashion Week debut of ‘Afterlife’ show

After performing during the pre-show to menswear designer Boris Bidjan Saberi’s at last years NYFW, Italian Techno duo Tale Of Us are back this year with their successful show ‘Afterlife’, debuting at New Yorks Avant Gardner.  The event will be spread across 3 rooms – The Brooklyn Mirage, the Great Hall and the Kings Hall and will include a video installation by media artist Quayola called ‘Jardins d’Été’.  Tale Of Us will accompany the video installation with their Endless album, creating a pice entitled ‘Endless- Jardins’.  

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Tale Of Us have a history with the fashion industry, launching ‘Afterlife x Bruno Bordese’ shoes in 2016 and worked alongside Boris Bidjan Saberi in 2017 to launch their own line ‘Afterlife x 11 by BBS’.  The music producers say they originally created Afterlife, both the event and their record label, in order to have more freedom musically and aesthetically. “It is when you have your own label and event that you can develop your vision without any compromise,” they told Forbes. According to Tale Of Us, the Afterlife event is unique from other shows because of its “overall experience for the senses.”  Afterlife has already held a successful residency in Ibiza this summer and also shown in London, Amsterdam, Miami & Mexico City amongst others.  
The New York event will also feature other talent from the Afterlife label including Recondite, Patrice Bäumel, Hunter / Game & Roland Appel and will take place on Saturday September 8th.  
Afterlife New York Saturday 8th September – Sunday 9th September